Tuscany

Florence, Lucca, Pisa, Siena, Garfagnana Valley

Famous for its art, history and evocative landscape, Tuscany is a region where the past and the present merge together and coexist in perfect harmony. The great art centres of Florence, Pisa and Siena and the medieval towns such as San Gimignano and Pienza bear timeless witness to a thousand years of history, culture and art. They unite perfectly with a natural heritage of undoubted value and enormous variety, from the green hills of Chianti to the beaches on the Tyrrhenian coast with the seaside resorts of Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi and Elba, and from the spectacular rocky heights of the Apuan Alps and the snowy peaks of the Apennines to the spas of Montecatini, Chianciano and Bagni di Lucca.

Tuscany is a region famous also for its wines, reds and whites ranging from table wines to wines of great prestige and universal fame. The most famous Tuscany reds are "Brunello di Montalcino," "Nobile di Montepulciano" and Chianti produced in the hills and bottled by the Sangiovese vinyards. Most of the white wines come from Trebbiano vinyards, like the light and sparkling "Galestro" and the simple "Tuscan white." The "Vernaccia of San Gimignano," obtained from Vernaccia grapes, is very flavorful, as is the "Montecarlo," from the Lucca region. Among the characteristic sweet wines is the "Vin Santo" made with raisins from Trebbiano and Malvasia, aged for several years in small casks and then bottled.

Florence, in the region of Tuscany, is the main city after which the province is named. It rises on the banks of the Arno in a vast plain surrounded by hills. The river divides the city into two parts. Florence’s economy is based on tourism, industry (textiles and clothes, metalwork, optics, chemistry, pharmaceuticals, glass and ceramics) and on Florentine handicrafts (embroidery, jewellery).

The Accademia Gallery is one of the most well-known museums in Florence because it contains famous sculptures by Michelangelo, including the original of the world-famous David.
The Uffizi Gallery is located in the impressive Uffizi Palace built in a horseshoe shape. The Uffizi Gallery today contains masterpieces of Italian and international artists of the thirteenth and eighteenth centuries, including Cimabue, Giotto, Masaccio, Leonardo, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Piero della Francesca, Raphael, Caravaggio, Rubens, Rembrandt, Durer, Goya and many others.
The Duomo (cathedral) of Florence was begun in 1296 by Arnolfo di Cambio and was consecrated in 1436. Giotto's Belltower, 85 metres high, a masterpiece of gothic art, stands beside the Duomo. A stairway with 412 steps rises to the upper terrace, offering an ample view over the city.
The Pitti Palace is the grandest palace in Florence. Some of the most important Florentine museums are now located in the palace and in the Boboli gardens behind it.
Piazza della Signoria has always been the political centre of Florence - the citizens gather here when called to public assemblies. The statues, some of which are not originals, commemorate the city's most important events, many of which are connected to the rise and fall of the Florentine Republic. The piazza, with the fountain of Neptune (sixteenth century) at its center, houses various sculptures, among which the Perseus in bronze by Cellini and the Rape of the Sabines by Gianbologna, not to mention a copy of Michelangelo’s David.
The Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) is the oldest bridge of Florence, built in 1345. It is the only one that was not destroyed during the Second World War. The bridge is formed by three arches resting upon two robust pillars with spurs in the form of ships' prows. Upon it are two rows of typical jewellery shops, some of which extend over the edges of the bridge. Piazzale Michelangelo, a short walk outside the city, offers the best picture-postcard view and photo opportunites over the roofs of Florence.

Florence’s food is praised for its solid peasant traditions. It is based on a few fundamental genuine ingredients: olive oil, tomatoes, beans, herbs, ham and salami.
Among the first courses of the "poor style" cuisine worth mentioning are "ribollita" (a soup based on black cabbage, beans, and other vegetables), "bruschette" (toasted bread with garlic and olive oil, sometimes covered with liver patè, anchovy paste or olives), beans "Uccelletta" style, minestrone soup with boiled beans, cooked in oil with tomato sauce and sage.
Among the second courses, the most famous is surely the "beefsteak Florentine style", cooked rare, without salt, flavored with herbs. Among the less noble second courses the most characteristic is "tripe Florentine style," covered with tomato sauce and an abundant sprinkling of grated parmesan cheese. Game dishes worth mentioning include boar and rabbit with their typical sauces.
The most common cheeses in Florence are pecorino and ricotta.
Desserts are simple; in Italian they are called "poor," the most characteristic being "cantucci" (cookies sweetened with almonds, for dunking in "Vin Santo") and "schiacciata Florentine style" (a pastry covered with vanilla sugar and flavored with lemon).
The center of Florence is crowded with shops selling everything from stylish clothing to used books. There are also many shops for shoes and leather goods, particularly in the Piazza Santa Croce area. Florence is famous for high-class handicrafts and elegant creations.
From straw, a typical Florentine product used for pretty and original clothes and decorative objects, to leatherwork renowned for its refinement and skilled workmanship, from ceramics to glass, from woodwork to metalwork, a large number of desirable objects offer the opportunity to make purchases adapted to all tastes, ages and interests.
The Market of San Lorenzo, situated at the centre of the city, is the preferred destination of tourists. At the Flea Market one can make good deals on small antique items. The last Sunday of every month except July, the market expands into the adjacent streets.

Lucca is the capital of the province of the same name in northwestern Tuscany. With approximately 85,000 inhabitants, Lucca is situated 19 metres above sea level, near the Serchio River, between the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, the Tyrrhenian Coast and the Pisan hills. It is an important city for art and traditional culture, with a historic centre of extraordinary value, which has conserved almost intact the thick urban network of houses, towers, medieval churches, Renaissance palaces and 19th-century piazzas, not to mention the famous city walls. Lucca today is a flowering commercial and industrial center.

The Renaissance Walls, the most significant monument of Lucca, is an intact circle 12 metres high and about 4 km in length, with a series of ramparts. This impressive complex was begun in 1544 to take the place of the medieval walls, which were already insufficient for defending the city. The undertaking required so many resources that it was completed only in 1650. It is an imposing complex of defensive works, ditches, gun outposts, barriers, large underground chambers, and ten spurred ramparts, which formerly held guard-posts. The walls have now lost their military value and have been transformed into a beautiful public walkway lined with benches and trees. Even today, being forbidden to cars, the walls constitute a daily destination for the inhabitants of Lucca, for walking, cycling, skating, or simply sitting and watching the world go by.

Lucca’s cooking maintains the flavorful character of its rural past. Simple like all traditional cuisine in Tuscany, but rich in creativity in its approach to old flavours and to the use of genuine primary materials, it is distinguished by its use of local vegetables and aromatic herbs in every dish. Together with mushrooms, these take a primary role. Among first dishes, minestrone made in the rural tradition is outstanding, as are vegetable soup “alla frantoia” (“of the olive mill”), farro (“spelt”) and bean soups, and “farinata” made with vegetables and corn flour. One of the richest first dishes is “tordelli lucchesi” with ragu sauce, served on festive and holiday occasions. The more well known common dishes are based on pork and poultry (pork roasted on the grill or with aromatic herbs, rabbit “cacciatore” with olives, chicken “al mattone”, and fried chicken with fried vegetables). Cooking based on river fish such as stewed Serchio eel, Garfagnana trout and baked mullet, or humble, flavorful baccala (cod) roasted with chickpeas or stewed with leeks, is also typical.
Strolling along the shady downtown streets, one can breath the true atmosphere of Lucca and the reserved but courteous character of the Lucchese. In the narrow streets, lined with ancient shops and artisans’ studios, the daily life of the city is swarming, hard working and lively.

Besides products of local manufacture (textiles, ceramics, shoes), Lucca is worth visiting for its typical food products (olive oil, wine, farro, porcini mushrooms). Traditional pastry shops and bakeries, present in every corner of the city, offer the simple sweets of the past, like the famous Buccellato, a sweet bread flavoured with aniseed and raisins.
Market (clothes, shoes, fabrics, used and housewares), Via dello Stadio; every Wednesday and Saturday morning.
Antiques Market, Piazza S. Martino and surrounding; every third weekend.

Pisa, in the region of Tuscany, has approx. 92000 inhabitants and lies 4 metres above sea level just a few kilometers from the Tyrrhenian coast. One of the major cultural centers of Italy and capital city of its Tuscan province, the city today is a prestigious university and research centre.

Any visit to Pisa of course must include with the celebrated Leaning Tower, the unique bell-tower of the Duomo (cathedral), famed certainly for its characteristic tilt, but also for the beauty of its architectural structure. Begun in 1173, construction was interrupted at the third floor because the ground began to give way. Despite this problem, work was finished in the 14th century, when the tilt was already 143 cm., with the addition of another three floors and the cell of the bell-tower. The Leaning Tower is about 56 meters tall and inclines 4 meters with respect to the vertical. It is on a circular plan and entirely covered with white marble. You can climb the spiral stairway of 294 stairs inside the tower.
The Leaning Tower is located behind the Duomo or cathedral, which was begun in 1064 and completed in the 12th century. The façade in white limestone is laid out on the lower level with arches, and above with four levels of loggias decorated with carvings and sculptures. The artworks gathered inside the cathedral are of immeasurable value. Finally, in front of the apse hangs the lamp of Galileo Galilei, used by the famous scientist to determine important laws of physics.

In front of the Duomo rises the elegant Baptistery, with an imposing dome, 18 metres in diameter. Begun in 1152, the work was only completed in the 14th century. The Baptistery continues the architectural scheme of the Duomo, with a base in blind arches, surmounted by a loggia mounted on columns.
Alongside the Leaning Tower, Baptistery and Duomo, the Monumental Cemetery closes in the west side of the piazza. The vast marble arcade, decorated by blind arches on the exterior, encloses the ancient cemetery. Within is an excellent gathering of Roman, Medieval, and Renaissance antiquities: tombs, funeral monuments, sculptures and detached frescoes.

Simple and genuine, Pisa’s cuisine is like that of Tuscany in general, except for some typical local dishes, in which river and sea fish (inheritance of Pisa’s ancient maritime history) take first place, such as the soups (vegetable, bean, rice and clams), rice with black cuttlefish, and steamed cuttlefish with peas. A meal traditionally ends with light almond cookies accompanied by a locally made dessert wine known as vin santo.

In an important cultural center like Pisa, you will find many rare book and antique stamp shops and bookbinders. Near the Leaning Tower, besides the many bizarre souvenirs, one finds jewellery and other objects made from coral and alabaster.
Market (clothing, shoes, fabrics, housewares, used), parking area of Porta S. Zeno. Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Antique market and show, Logge dei Banchi. Every second weekend of the month.
Vettovaglie (foods) market, Piazza delle Vettovaglie. Every weekday morning.

Siena (with approx. 57000 inhabitants) is the capital of its province in Tuscany and lies 322 meters above sea level. It is located on three hills, from which it dominates the high plain between Chianti and the Crete hills. An important cultural and university centre, Siena is an obligatory destination for tourism. It is famous for its exceptionally rich historical and artistic patrimony and for the beauty of its landscapes. The city is rich in commercial activity and handicrafts (wines, oils and other food products). The origin for the name of Siena, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities in Italy and in the world, is still a matter of research. According to legend Siena was founded by Senio, the son of Remus, one of the two founders of Rome. Some also attribute the name to the Etruscan family of the Saina, some to the Roman family of the Saenii.
Siena often crossed swords with Florence in epic and cruel battles that forged the history of medieval Italy. In 1348, however, Siena was laid low by the Black Death, which like an earthquake exterminated three fifths of the population. With its brilliant Tuscan Gothic buildings, Siena is a jewel of world-wide fame.

Piazza del Campo is one of the most famous piazzas in the world, noted for the descending half-moon form which goes from its upper side to its lower side. Twice a year the famous Palio of Siena takes place here.

Siena’s gastronomy has preserved simple traditional recipes tied to local products that confer their own stamp compared to general cuisine in Tuscany. Among first dishes, I Pici, poor, homemade ancestors to spaghetti, flavored with a rich boar sauce, are outstanding, as are the rice with artichokes, spaghetti with tomato sauce, and the famous Ribollita (soup made from vegetables and bread, boiled several times). The second dishes are distinguished by the use of lots of garlic and aromatic herbs. Typical specialities are pheasant “Sienese style,” tripe with snails and chicken livers, and fritters with “zoccoli” (cubes of fried lard, or bacon). Rustic crostini (roasted bread, often with toppings) are served along with a traditional sausage made from boar and pecorino cheese. All these foods are accompanied by noted wines from the Sienese hills. The famous typical sweets reveal their ancient origins and oriental influences: ricciarelli, cavallucci, panpepati and the elaborate panforte (a kind of dense fruitcake), all made with spices, dried fruit, almond paste and honey.

Besides pastry shops and specialty food shops, which are hard to resist, Siena offers wine shops, with a vast selection of Tuscan and Italian wines, antique shops and shops of local artisans (fabrics and terracotta).

The delights of Tuscany are not confined to the major city destinations such as Florence, Siena and Pisa. To the north west of the region can be found an area of outstanding natural beauty, and faultless hospitality - Garfagnana.

The Garfagnana valley is one of Italy’s best kept secrets, and can be found in Northwest Tuscany. Within easy reach of Tuscany’s more famous sites like Florence, Pisa and Lucca, the Garfagnana offers some spectacular scenery and great local cuisine. Nestling between the magnificent jagged ‘marble mountains’ of the Alpi Apuane and the beautiful rolling ‘spine of Italy’, the Apennines, it is truly an area of outstanding natural beauty with matchless hospitality.

The Parco Alpi Apuane is where Michelangelo obtained the marble for some of his most famous works such as the world-famous David. The National Park Orecchiella is still full of wolves, deer, bears and some excellent walks along the mountain ridges.
Driving through Garfagnana’s quiet roads you quickly discover that the little villages spread around the mountains are vibrantly full of local traditions and great cuisine. Mountain farming continues to this day and the locals are all passionate about their food. Be prepared for a lengthy discussion if you stop one of the villagers for advice on the local produce! Garfagnana’s cuisine brims with dishes containing local ingredients. Chestnuts and farro (a type of wheat) are often used in soups, whilst porcini mushrooms are a staple product in every kitchen. Wood burning ovens are abundant and people still prefer to make their own bread. In addition to the foodstuffs many people have their own little vineyard making their own wine and olive oil.
From June until October the region comes alive with a whole host of events and festivals celebrating local traditions and religious ceremonies. Every village and town holds its own ‘sagra’ (feast), often open-aired, where you can enjoy their local dishes and wines alongside music and dancing! Everybody is welcome and to make sure you don’t forget to attend you’ll see posters advertising them wherever you go in Garfagnana.

One of the finest towns in the region is Barga, set atop a hill. Your visit to Barga will afford magnificent views over the valley, classic fortified, hilltop architecture, and fine restaurants.

The region is full of restaurants which approach the discerning visitor's dream of a proper Italian family eating-place, relatively unspoilt by tourism, serving simple but tremendously fresh ingredients cooked with skills handed down from a grandmother's grandmother. Many places serve local delicacies, particularly wild boar.

Garfagnana does allow access to the traditional Tuscany tourist cities of Lucca, Pisa, Florence, but its appeal lies more in its isolation, its lack of tourism and its striking scenery. For those who want to see a piece of real Italy, traditional, but not stuck in the past, it cannot be beaten.